ventures, adventures
Middle East
Exactly the opposite of preconceptions, never quite what you expect. 2010-04-19 - 2010-07-28

Dusk in the Gulf is a spectacular sight. Flat land stretching beyond the eyes' horizon blistering orange from the setting sun, colouring the sands yet further a different colour. The moon, waiting in self-promotion of lands yet traveled, as the jaundice fives up to stars from peripheral to peripheral.
"Every Westerner thinks Arabs all live in tents with a camel and an oil well outside". Even the lonely planet pitches in occasionally with the stereotype, warning of dangers here or there (although it does, correctly, contradict itself later).
And there are guns. Guns and camels. Lots of guns and camels, all either enjoying or attached to someone enjoying the cud, food, hospitality or and everything else that is to be found here.
Capital cities that feel like villages, a heartwarming generostiy and geniality. Safety of possessions and persons, all within a strangely calm bustle of activity which still has time for, indeed requires and relishes, everyday personal interactions.
continue to all things The Middle East »
from the nikon
of the rants: As seen on the fridge
Beirut is an interesting city. Lebanon is an interesting country. Think in parts high rise refugee camps, in parts Monaco with a significant military presence, except as safe as Monaco and as friendly as the Gulf. Even down south, where Hezbollah and Israel present enough of a threat to warrant a UN peacekeeping force. And the hummous gets better the closer you get to the border. Beautiful mountains and a stunning amount of ruins from both before and after the recent wars mix with a distinctly western twist of the traditional Arab outlook and a whole heap of French tourists. Meditteranean Arabia, you might say. Once thing I do know is that we are in danger ...»
of the jaunts: White Bedouin
3000km, a box of cornflakes and the friendliest people in the world. Only camels might make a road trip better... oh wait.. camel!!!
stats in brief
Countries involved: 7 :







Distance in Shiela | 3,400 km |
Speeding tickets | 0 (so far) |
Dates eaten | c. 5,678,654 |
Religiously insensitive events | 5 |
Shawerma Count | 29 |
Cars broken | 1 |
Haircuts | 0 |
Hair colour (websafe) | #B45F04 |
Tourist sites sneaked into | 4 |
- of which UNESCO WH sites | 1 |
Time wasted at Qalandia | 1.5 hrs |
Checkpoints encountered | 12 |
Land border crossings | 7 |
One legged taxi drivers | 1 |
- who were employed | 0 |































































